The rhythmic click-clack of cycling cleats on pavement echoes through Roxburgh, a familiar soundtrack for those traversing the stunning Otago region of New Zealand. After hours spent navigating the dramatic Roxburgh Gorge Trail, a path where resilient purple thyme clings to rugged cliffs and each sharp turn demands the prowess of a seasoned cyclist, riders arrive at 103 The Store. Here, weary legs find respite as they order expertly brewed coffees, refreshing cold drinks, or indulge in the local favourites: cinnamon-drenched scrolls, savoury scones, and the iconic New Zealand lolly cake. While they wait for their shuttle connections, the air buzzes with shared tales of sore muscles, the exhilaration of the ride, and the breathtaking scenery that has unfolded before them.
Even on a day where the trail has felt remarkably secluded, by late afternoon, The Store transforms into a vibrant hub. Cyclists, regardless of their pace, converge, their conversations a tapestry of shared experiences, from the physical challenges overcome to the awe-inspiring landscapes witnessed.
My own Otago adventure is centred around Clyde, a charming historic mining town situated 85 kilometres from Queenstown. From this base, I’m immersing myself in three of the five Nga Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand, a network of trails that weave through the heart of Otago. This region is renowned for its dramatic scenery and superlative landscapes, and the Otago portion is undoubtedly among the nation’s finest. While I anticipate encountering majestic mountains, verdant valleys, pristine lakes, and winding rivers, my deeper hope is that this unhurried exploration on two wheels will offer a more intimate connection with the local people and their unique way of life.
This sentiment is echoed by Kathryn “Fletch” Fletcher, co-owner of Bike it Now. “Everyone who goes out on the trails comes back with stories,” she explains as she expertly equips me with a bicycle, helmet, safety gear, and a water bottle. “They talk about the people they meet, the things they’ve seen.”
This promise of connection and discovery begins even before I mount my bike. The shuttle bus journey from Clyde to Auripo, the starting point for my ride, is enlivened by our driver, none other than the beloved former New Zealand cricketer and coach, Warren Lees. He regales us with captivating anecdotes of the region’s rich history, pointing out landmarks and places worthy of a return visit. Among these is the still-operational historic post office in Ophir, a remarkably preserved relic from 1886, complete with a tiny jailhouse out back. Lees’s narrative is a treasure trove of local lore, including tales of cyclists who have taken a wrong turn and insider tips on the best spots for coffee and lunch along the route. Interestingly, not a single mention of cricket escapes his lips. While locals may praise the profound silence of Central Otago, it’s evident they also possess a remarkable talent for storytelling.
The Otago Rail Trail offers an ideal introduction to cycling. As with all rail trails, it follows the gentle gradient of a disused railway line – in this case, the Otago Central Railway, which operated in sections from 1889, spanning 152 kilometres between Clyde and Middlemarch before ceasing operations in 1990. Its flat, smooth surface makes it accessible for riders of all ages and abilities. My plan is to cycle the 55 kilometres from Auripo back to Clyde, though many opt for a more leisurely three-day tour, pre-booking accommodation, dining, and luggage transfers for a seamless experience. On this particular route, the excitement stems less from technical challenges and more from the journey through historic gold mining and farming landscapes, punctuated by charming small towns, evocative tunnels, and impressive bridges that scar the path carved by the former railway.
The weather, a glorious spring day, beckons me to continue cycling past the Muddy Creek Cafe in Omakau, where I’ve paused for a coffee and a delightful homemade ginger slice at the 20-kilometre mark. The allure of the open trail proves stronger than the legendary pub lunch at Chatto Creek. However, the sky abruptly darkens, and a fierce wind picks up, its force such that only the assistance of my e-bike’s motor allows me to make any progress.
This sudden change in conditions presents the perfect opportunity to divert from the trail and seek refuge at Monte Christo winery. There, cellar door manager Rebecca Cowley offers a welcome umbrella and recounts the fascinating story of intrepid Frenchman Jean Desire Feraud. His pursuit of gold ultimately led him to establish Otago’s first winery. Although Feraud’s original 1864 vineyard eventually returned to farmland, his stone barn has since been lovingly restored and now serves as the winery’s cellar door. Complete with inviting indoor and outdoor seating, a sprawling lawn, and a popular pizza van, it proves an irresistible draw for passing cyclists and discerning wine connoisseurs alike, eager to sample the winery’s award-winning Pinot Noir.
While the cycle trails of Otago are celebrated for their vast expanses of untouched, spectacular wilderness, challenging ascents and descents, and dramatic cliff faces, they also offer welcome oases of civilisation precisely when and where they are most needed. On my second day, I’m joined by Geoff Marks, an experienced cyclist and representative from Tourism Central Otago, for a ride along the Lake Dunstan Trail. To my surprise, after only 30 minutes of cycling, he suggests a break. He clearly knows something I don’t.
As we round a bend, the trail opens onto an expansive lawn overlooking the Kawarau River, where other cyclists are already enjoying wine and relaxing in front of Carrick Winery’s cellar door. Owners Tony and Alison Cleland, local farmers, acquired the winery in 2021, the same year the Lake Dunstan Trail officially opened. Capitalising on the surge in cycling popularity during the pandemic, they swiftly adapted to the needs of hikers and riders, adding a pizza trailer, a café, and a barbecue area to complement their established fine dining restaurant. “We realised pretty quickly we were on to a good thing here,” Tony remarks.
The Clelands were not the only ones innovating along the trail during the pandemic. A further 10 kilometres along, after we’ve climbed high above Lake Dunstan on a winding track, we descend to a secluded cove where two small boats are gently bobbing. “Is it time for an espresso?” Marks enquires.
We dismount our bikes and step onto Coffee Afloat, a charming boat equipped with a gleaming espresso machine. The brainchild of locals Richard and Jolanda Foale, Coffee Afloat was soon joined by Burger Afloat, offering delicious burgers crafted from local venison. They also provide essential amenities such as bike pumps, picnic tables, and a nearby trail toilet. “We’re also the unofficial ambulance,” Richard adds with a twinkle in his eye, leaving me to ponder whether he’s entirely joking.
Back on our bikes, we leave the other coffee-sipping cyclists behind. Soon, the trail hugs the cliffs so closely that I find myself tucking in my elbows to avoid scraping them. This section, a grade-three trail, is narrow, remote, and often exposed. A near miss, a skid on a corner, jolts me into acknowledging that Richard’s “unofficial ambulance” comment might have held a kernel of truth. Yet, the views stretching across the lake and the rugged, historically gold-rush-era hills are nothing short of majestic.
As the central point connecting these three Great Rides, Clyde buzzes with activity by late afternoon as returning cyclists and hikers converge on the historic town. The Post Office Bar and Restaurant, a local institution, soon finds itself catering to a lively crowd.
It’s almost difficult to imagine cycling becoming any more popular, but just a few weeks after my visit, the Kawarau Gorge Trail officially opens. This new route connects Bannockburn to Gibbston, effectively linking all five Otago trails into a comprehensive 530-kilometre network. Furthermore, in 2027, the current gap in the Roxburgh Gorge Trail, which necessitates a thrilling jetboat transfer between Doctors Point and Shingle Creek, will also be bridged by a completed trail section.
Rather than posing a risk of overtourism, this strategic dispersal of visitors across the region is a shrewd approach to sharing economic benefits. Crucially, it also fosters greater opportunities for the kind of slow travel that allows visitors to truly connect with this captivating part of New Zealand and the resilient individuals who call it home. As Fletch might have put it, it’s the stories woven along the journey that truly make the experience unforgettable.
THE DETAILS
RIDE
Cycling in Otago is a year-round pursuit. Three of the region’s acclaimed Nga Haerenga Great Rides – the Otago Rail Trail, Roxburgh Gorge Trail, and Lake Dunstan Trail – all commence or conclude in Clyde. This historic mining town, nestled on the banks of the Clutha/Mata-Au River, is conveniently located 85 kilometres from Queenstown. Bike it Now, with branches in Clyde, Wanaka, and Cromwell, offers comprehensive services including bicycle hire, curated itineraries, guided tours complete with accommodation and luggage transfers, and essential trail shuttles. For more information, visit nzcycletrail.com or bikeitnow.co.nz.
STAY
The Olivers Collection in Clyde presents a unique accommodation experience, featuring an on-site brewery, a popular café, and a restaurant. Guests can choose from two beautifully restored historic luxury accommodation options: The Lord Clyde and Olivers Lodge and Stables, both situated on Clyde’s main street and offering breakfast. Explore further at olivers.co.nz.
FLY
A range of airlines, including Virgin, Qantas, Jetstar, and Air New Zealand, offer flights to Queenstown from Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane. Car rental services, such as Sixt, are available at Queenstown Airport. Visit sixt.com.au for bookings.
MORE INFORMATION
For further insights into the region, consult centralotagonz.com.
The writer’s travel expenses were covered by Nga Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand.
