Hermès Embraces the Enchantment of Twilight at Paris Fashion Week
For over a decade, Hermès has chosen the hallowed grounds of Paris’ Garde Républicaine, the esteemed ceremonial cavalry barracks near the Bastille, as the backdrop for its women’s collections. This choice is no mere aesthetic whim; it’s a profound connection to the house’s equestrian roots, a fitting echo of its saddle-making origins. The very air within the republic’s mounted guard stables feels intrinsically linked to the brand’s heritage.
This season, however, Hermès elevated the sensory experience to an entirely new level, transforming the cavernous, darkened hall into an immersive natural wonderland. Upon entering, guests were met with a surreal landscape – a plush carpet of mossy grass that cushioned every step. The air was thick with the evocative, earthy scent of a forest floor, a fragrance so potent it felt as though one had stepped directly into a woodland clearing. The effect was so captivating that some attendees, navigating the terrain in their elegant heels, found themselves momentarily unsteady, reaching for a companion’s arm as their stilettos gently sank into the yielding earth.
As the audience, including notable figures like Charlotte Gainsbourg and Bella Freud, settled in, the space came alive with ambient sound. Distant croaks, the subtle rustling of unseen nocturnal creatures, and the faint suggestion of frogs hidden in the darkness all contributed to a deeply immersive atmosphere. According to the show notes, Creative Director Nadège Vanhée aimed to capture the “suspension of twilight” for both the collection and the setting, and it was a vision brilliantly realised.
The collection itself opened with a series of looks that exuded technical precision and set a distinct mood. Blazers crafted from crepe or high-performance fabrics were paired with complementary shorts, coats, and streamlined jackets, their silhouettes dramatically anchored by thigh-high boots. The unexpected inclusion of bike shorts beneath tailored ensembles introduced a sporty tension, a modern twist on classic lines.
The show notes further elaborated on this concept of a “liminal realm,” a space where the sharp clarity of twilight allows familiar forms to subtly shift and transform into something entirely new. This idea permeated the collection’s palette, which ventured beyond the expected black into a sophisticated spectrum of oxblood, deep forest green, vibrant sulphur yellow, and rich midnight blue. These were colours that felt plucked directly from that magical interlude between the setting sun and the encroaching night.
From these foundational looks, the collection delved deeper into Hermès’ renowned equilibrium of practicality and unadulterated luxury. Outfits fashioned from ostrich leather offered a subtle yet undeniable flash of rebellion, while suede jodhpurs paid a stylish homage to the house’s enduring equestrian legacy. Wool messenger jackets projected an urban readiness, and second-skin catsuits, reminiscent of high-performance moto gear, added a sleek, modern edge. At Hermès, dusk is not a period of quiet repose, but rather the thrilling commencement of dynamic movement and bold expression.
