A print of a Diego Rivera mural titled Dream of a Sunday Afternoon at Alameda Central Park is displayed on the wall of Cafe Valentina. The artwork serves as a memento for the owner, Maria Mardones, who spent time in Mexico during her travels from her native Chile. As I sit down to enjoy my order of huevos rancheros, the dish suddenly makes perfect sense.
The breakfast menu at Cafe Valentina draws inspiration from traditional Mexican cuisine. Instead of being fried sunny side up, the eggs are incorporated into an omelette with coriander and onion. The chili con carne features a mix of red and black beans, a blend of spices, and a smoky heat from chipotle. An avocado mash complements the plate, along with fresh bread – specifically soft white tiger rolls from a nearby Vietnamese establishment. These rolls are a delightful addition that perfectly balances the meal.
The rest of the menu primarily focuses on Chilean dishes, including empanadas, completos (Chilean hot dogs), various sandwiches, a stew known as porotos, and a selection of desserts. The food is hearty and filling, so if you’re looking for something light, this might not be the place for you.
Empanadas: A Cultural Delight
A good empanada is a remarkable dish. Across different cultures, these pastries have been enjoyed for centuries, originating from Spain and Portugal. They come in both savory and sweet varieties and can be found throughout South and East Asia, the Caribbean, and much of Central and South America. At Cafe Valentina, there are two types of empanadas available: fried and baked.
The fried cheese empanada offers a satisfying simplicity, which can be enhanced by adding pebre – a salsa made from coriander, tomato, onion, and chili – after the first bite. The fried minced beef version adds more depth, offering a balance of savoury and subtly sweet flavours, again elevated by the addition of pebre.
However, the standout option is undoubtedly the baked empanada de pino. Unlike the fried versions, which can be eaten on the go, this baked variation is a substantial meal in itself. It includes the same spiced mince as the fried version, but now also features a wedge of hard-boiled egg and a black olive. Mardones prepares this dish using a recipe passed down from her mother.
“It takes you back,” she explains, “because it’s one of those foods you grow up with. It’s our party food, it’s our Sunday food… it says Chile more than anything.”
The completo is another highlight, using the same tiger roll as in the huevos rancheros. This loaded Chilean hot dog is filled with a frankfurt, diced tomato, avocado mash, and mayonnaise. It’s oozy, rich, and slightly messy – I challenge anyone not to get some on their face.
The coldcut sandwiches are also worth trying. Options include the Chileno (with rocket, tomato, ham, mayo, and pebre), the New Yorker (a nod to the Reuben with pastrami, cheese, pickles, mustard, and sauerkraut), and Italian-style prosciutto or mortadella creations. The chicken schnitzel roll is unique in town for including pebre, while the warm churrasco sandwich features thinly sliced beef and veal, along with lettuce and the classic combination of tomato, avocado, and mayonnaise.
The café has three tables on the footpath, with a simple, homely interior that feels welcoming. Mardones’ son, daughter, and friends are either in the kitchen or serving customers. Soulful music from Buena Vista Social Club plays softly in the background as I enjoy my long black, made with Mexican-origin Melba Coffee beans.
During one visit, I had to ask for cutlery, but the staff responded with a smile and quickly fixed the issue. The only regret I had was arriving too late for the caramelised dulce de leche desserts, which had already sold out. Mardones and her husband, Erick Aranda, also run the original Cafe Valentina in Dandenong Market four days a week, where my sweet tooth and I have better luck after a satisfying lunch.
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