Canberra’s Culinary Renaissance: A City Redefining Its Food Scene
The nation’s capital, Canberra, is undergoing a significant transformation in its dining landscape. What was once perceived as a more traditional culinary scene is now bursting with innovation, offering a diverse range of experiences from high-end establishments to intimate, chef-driven eateries. A visit to the Canberra Centre, for instance, offers a snapshot of this evolution. Noteworthy additions include Compa, an Italianate steakhouse helmed by renowned chef Matt Moran, and Carlotta, a sophisticated Italian eatery by Melbourne restaurateur Chris Lucas, boasting signature mini negronis, classic spaghetti all’amatriciana, and wood-grilled chicken.
Beyond these refined offerings, the Canberra Centre also houses Tiger Lane, a vibrant precinct featuring ten distinct venues, including a lively bar and an array of street-food stalls. Here, patrons can indulge in everything from Singapore noodles to delicate steamed custard buns. For those seeking exceptional Japanese cuisine, Raku is a must-visit, celebrated for its superior nigiri, premium wagyu, and extensive sake selection.
Venturing beyond the city centre, Lunetta, situated in a striking modernist building on Red Hill, represents a new wave of dining in the ACT. This newly hatted venue offers breathtaking sunset views over the city, complemented by a menu focused on fire-driven cooking. Downstairs, Lunetta Trattoria provides a more casual yet equally appealing experience, with its aperitivo and pasta offerings drawing a dedicated following.
Intimate Dining and Global Flavours
Canberra also excels in creating small, intimate dining experiences. Yarralumla’s Minima, a minimalist jewel box, showcases the culinary vision of brothers Mork and Benn Ratanakosol. Their menu is a thoughtful reflection of their “third-culture kid” upbringing, expertly paired with an impressive and often surprising wine list. In Phillip, Dada offers a considered approach to fusion cuisine in a chic setting. For an ultra-personal dining encounter, the twelve-person counter at Mu Omakase provides an unparalleled omakase experience.
The spirit of independent operators continues to be a driving force in Canberra’s food scene. Kingston’s corner brasserie, Onzieme, is currently at its peak, delighting diners with dishes such as golden halloumi with persimmon and pistachio, and grilled cobia with a classic sauce au poivre. Beneath Onzieme lies 11e Cave, widely regarded as the city’s premier hidden bar, while nearby, the newcomer Tintino offers a more traditional wine bar atmosphere.
Braddon: A Hub of Culinary Delights
The city centre remains a vibrant epicentre of activity. Bar Rochford continues to impress with its expertly crafted cocktails, forward-thinking wine list, and sharp, shareable plates. Sean McConnell at Rebel Rebel consistently challenges culinary conventions, encouraging patrons to explore dishes like wagyu tongue and adventurous selections from their wine list, all set to a compelling proto-punk soundtrack.
Weekends in Braddon present a full day of culinary exploration. B-Side, operated by the team behind the exceptional Intra in Campbell, is perfect for breakfast, offering unique combinations like chilli-cucumber and peanut on sourdough, paired with an espresso tonic. For lunch, Italian & Sons serves up Italian classics such as baccala mantecato and tagliatelle alla carbonara. Dinner options are plentiful, with Eightysix being a popular choice. Alternatively, Bar Outro offers a modern vinyl bar, wine bar, and diner experience, run by the accomplished crew behind the fire- and meat-focused Terra (now in new premises) and the stylish Recess cafe in Griffith. Recess is known for its incredibly fluffy pancakes, decadent brekkie muffins, and a show-stopping 100-layer lasagne. For a late-night wind-down, Volstead Repeal provides a speakeasy ambiance with an impressive whisky selection.
Paranormal Wines in Campbell shares a similar energetic vibe to Bar Outro, with a focus on natural wines and sophisticated dishes emerging from its compact kitchen. Such and Such, the more playful and youthful counterpart to the two-hatted Pilot, is an ideal spot for pre-theatre dining or simply any occasion. For those seeking contemporary, chef-driven fare, Peonee is a standout option.
Specialty Treats and Family Flavours
Beyond the main dining establishments, Canberra also boasts a strong contingent of specialty food providers. Good Neighbour offers delightful creations such as coconut matcha clouds. Under Bakery is renowned for its exceptional Swedish cinnamon buns, sourdough, and other baked goods. Canteen and Ramen O have mastered the art of noodle dishes. In Pialligo, Beltana Farm is a unique destination for refined farmhouse fare and truffle hunting experiences.
Finally, a culinary highlight not to be missed is AK’s, located outside the Ovolo Nishi. This lunch-only gem features AK Ramakrishna, formerly of XO. He masterfully coaxes deep, authentic flavours from family-style dishes, including fragrant chicken peratel and a deeply comforting Tamil-style fish curry that evokes a true taste of home.
