Osaka, a city renowned for its vibrant culinary scene and electrifying nightlife, is more than just a feast for the senses. It’s a place where the philosophy of kuidaore – literally meaning “to eat yourself bankrupt” or “eat until you drop” – isn’t just a saying, but a way of life. This spirit of indulgence and commitment to experiencing things to their fullest is palpable in its bustling districts.
Dotonbori: Osaka’s Iconic Entertainment Hub
Perhaps the most iconic representation of Osaka’s energetic pulse is Dotonbori. This renowned tourist hotspot is the backdrop for many of the quintessential nighttime images of the city. Visitors are greeted by the dazzling spectacle of the Glico Man billboard, larger-than-life animatronic sea creatures like crabs and pufferfish adorning restaurant facades, and the lively scene of boats filled with revellers gliding along the canal. The vibrant atmosphere is further amplified by the throngs of people gathered around Ebisu Bridge, soaking in the electric ambiance.
Nakazakicho: A Bohemian Escape
Venture a little further north from the dazzling lights of Dotonbori, past the towering skyscrapers, department stores, and upscale eateries of the glamorous Umeda district, and you’ll discover a different side of Osaka. Tucked away is Nakazakicho, a bohemian neighbourhood that feels like a step back in time. This charming area is a labyrinth of narrow, walkable streets and alleyways, lined with low-slung, traditional wooden-framed houses and buildings.
Much of Nakazakicho retains its historic charm, having been largely spared from the widespread destruction of World War II firebombing. However, this picturesque district wasn’t always the thriving enclave it is today. As recently as the turn of the millennium, it faced a period of decline, marked by neglect and an ageing population, leading to it being described as a ghost town.
The Visionary Behind the Revival: Jun Amanto
The transformation of Nakazakicho from a forgotten corner to a cultural hotspot is largely attributed to one man: Jun Amanto. A dancer and actor by profession, Amanto first stumbled upon Nakazakicho in 2000. He was captivated by this hidden gem, a place even many long-time Osaka residents were unaware of.
Almost 25 years ago, Amanto established Salon de Amanto, a cafe and cultural hub that has become the heart of the neighbourhood. The entrance to Salon de Amanto is understated, almost hidden behind lush, overhanging vines, making it easy to miss. Yet, stepping inside reveals a space that feels like a welcoming, albeit slightly ramshackle, home. Shelves overflow with books, intimate nooks and crannies offer cosy seating, and loft areas provide relaxed lounging spaces. The cafe serves coffee, beer, and hearty home-cooked meals, fostering a sense of community and creativity.
Amanto’s vision extended beyond his own establishment. He actively encouraged other artists, creatives, and makers to set up their workshops, galleries, cafes, and shops in Nakazakicho. Crucially, his approach emphasised community-led rejuvenation, prioritising the use of recyclable building materials and consulting with residents to ensure the area’s development was sustainable and avoided aggressive gentrification.
A Tapestry of Old and New
Today, the success of Amanto’s plan is evident as you wander through Nakazakicho. The neighbourhood seamlessly blends the old with the new. Classic establishments like the old-school cafe New Masa stand alongside contemporary third-wave coffee joints such as Osa Coffee. Vintage stores are a hallmark of the area, ranging from intimate shopfronts like Tad and Trico to larger, more curated emporiums such as Pigsty and Vivie. Many of the establishments offer a unique hybrid experience, like Arabiq, a delightful combination of a bookstore, art gallery, and cafe.
The artistic spirit of Nakazakicho is impossible to ignore. Striking murals, paintings, and prints adorn doors and walls throughout the district. Beneath the railway tracks, a cluster of galleries and studio spaces known as Irorimura serves as a hub for local artists.
Discovering Hidden Galleries: A Journey of Exploration
Navigating Nakazakicho can be an adventure in itself. Seeking out Gallery Yolcha, I relied on Google Maps, which eventually led me to what appeared to be the correct location on a quiet, narrow street. However, surrounded by what seemed to be private residences, I felt a sense of bewilderment. Spotting three women chatting outside a house, I showed them my phone with the gallery’s name. Initially, they seemed confused, but one eventually gestured for me to follow. She led me off the main street into an even smaller alleyway and pointed to an unassuming wooden door – the entrance to Gallery Yolcha.
Upon entering, the low ceiling immediately demanded a duck of the head. The exhibition featured the works of a family of folk artists from northern Japan, with pieces crafted from animal bones, fur, and horns. I had the opportunity to speak with Ilbong, the owner, who opened the gallery 15 years ago.
“There used to be nothing here in Nakazakicho,” he shared. “It used to be a dark and sometimes dangerous place. Then Amanto opened his cafe. Things changed, and they changed quickly. Now it’s a place where people want to visit.”
Ilbong then invited me to see the upstairs gallery, accessible via a narrow, steep ladder. Climbing up, I found myself in a small loft with an even lower ceiling. Sitting on a cushion, I admired the striking tribal prints adorning the walls. In the quiet solitude of the gallery, time seemed to slow down. While just a short distance away, Osaka was buzzing with its characteristic energy, Nakazakicho offered a sanctuary of calm, a space to breathe and reflect amidst the vibrant pulse of the big city.
Planning Your Osaka Adventure
For those planning a trip to this dynamic city, here are a few practical details:
Getting There
- Flights: ANA offers direct flights twice daily from Sydney to Tokyo, with convenient connecting flights to Osaka. From Perth, flights to Tokyo are daily between December 1 and April 20, and three times a week outside of this period. Visit ana.co.jp for bookings.
Accommodation
- Koko Hotel Osaka Shinsaibashi: This stylish boutique hotel is ideally situated in the heart of Osaka. It’s just one block from the popular Shinsaibashi shotengai (shopping street) and a short stroll to the lively Dotonbori district. It’s also conveniently located for exploring Nakazakicho, being only three train stops and a short walk away. More information can be found at koko-hotels.com.
