Beyond the Bullet Train: Discovering the Hidden Gems of Hyogo Prefecture
For many travellers, Japan conjures images of neon-drenched Tokyo, serene Kyoto temples, and the thrill of a bullet train journey. It’s a classic itinerary, a whirlwind of iconic sights that has cemented Japan’s place at the top of many wanderlust lists. Australian travel to the Land of the Rising Sun has seen a significant resurgence, fuelled by its perceived value, convenient proximity, and the sheer breadth of experiences it offers.
However, a desire for a deeper, less-trodden path led to an exploration beyond the usual tourist hotspots. This time, the aim was to uncover a different facet of Japan – the one that exists just off the beaten track, often overlooked by guidebooks but brimming with authentic charm and unforgettable moments. This quest led to Hyogo Prefecture, a region in western Japan that quietly delivers some of the country’s most captivating experiences without the overwhelming crowds.
A short journey from major hubs like Osaka and Kyoto, and easily accessible from Kansai International Airport, Hyogo Prefecture is a treasure trove of ancient castles, rejuvenating hot springs, exceptional cuisine, and breathtaking natural landscapes. Over a few days, the experience unfolded like a carefully crafted narrative: hiking to secluded waterfalls hidden behind bustling cities, immersing oneself in centuries-old onsens, savouring some of the freshest seafood imaginable, and wandering through towns where traditional crafts are still meticulously made by hand. It was Japan, undoubtedly, but a version entirely new and profoundly captivating.
Castles, Hot Springs, and the Quintessential Japanese Dream
If your mental postcard of Japan features imposing ancient castles, traditional wooden bathhouses, and lantern-lit streets, chances are, you’re picturing Hyogo Prefecture. The undisputed crown jewel is Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site and widely regarded as Japan’s most beautiful castle.
Himeji Castle, often called the “White Heron Castle,” is a testament to historical architecture and defensive ingenuity. Its striking white exterior, designed to resemble a heron in flight, is as impressive as its intricate interior. Ascending the castle keep is a journey through time, with steep wooden staircases, creaking floorboards, and narrow passageways that speak of its formidable past. Reaching the top offers a panoramic vista of the city below, a clear reminder of why this stronghold was considered virtually impenetrable.
The climb through Himeji Castle’s original wooden structure is a rewarding, albeit breathless, experience, offering a tangible connection to centuries of history.
While Himeji Castle offers a magnificent glimpse into Japan’s feudal past, a different kind of cultural immersion awaited a few hours to the north in Kinosaki Onsen. This charming hot spring town boasts a history spanning over 1,300 years. Its streets are picturesque, lined with traditional wooden ryokan inns and weeping willows that gracefully arch over the canals. As evening descends, the town is bathed in the soft, warm glow of lanterns, creating an enchanting atmosphere.
Visitors here are encouraged to embrace the local tradition, donning yukata robes provided by their accommodations and slipping into wooden geta sandals to explore. The highlight of Kinosaki Onsen is its seven historic public bathhouses, each offering a unique bathing experience. Notably, Kinosaki Onsen is one of the few traditional onsen towns that welcomes guests with tattoos, making it increasingly popular with younger travellers and international visitors seeking a more inclusive experience.
Staying at Hotel Shogetsutei Nishimuraya, a traditional ryokan nestled in the hills just outside the main town, provided an authentic taste of Japanese hospitality. Tatami mat floors, sliding shoji doors, and exquisite multi-course kaiseki dinners were all part of the immersive experience.
Embracing the tranquility of a private onsen experience, surrounded by the serene winter landscape.
Opting for a private onsen at the ryokan offered a blissful escape. Seventy uninterrupted minutes of soaking in mineral-rich hot water, with views of snow-dusted trees and the crisp winter air drifting through the forest, proved to be a deeply rejuvenating and highly recommended experience, free from the distractions of technology and schedules.
Landscapes That Surprise and Delight
Hyogo Prefecture’s geographical diversity is a revelation. Within a single trip, one can transition from sophisticated urban landscapes to tranquil mountain hikes, discover cascading waterfalls, and even encounter vast, desert-like sand dunes along the coast.
The journey began in Kobe, a cosmopolitan port city located about an hour from Osaka. The Kobe Oriental Hotel, with its prime harbour views, served as an ideal base for exploring the city’s vibrant waterfront.
The iconic Kobe Port Tower, a landmark that has graced the city’s skyline since 1963, recently underwent renovations and now boasts a rooftop observation deck offering breathtaking 360-degree views of the city, Osaka Bay, and the surrounding mountains.
Just outside the city, a surprising natural oasis awaits. A short walk from the Shin-Kobe area leads to Nunobiki Falls, a series of picturesque waterfalls nestled within the forested hills. Within minutes of starting the walk, the urban clamour fades, replaced by the soothing sounds of rushing water and the lush embrace of greenery.
Nunobiki Falls offers a serene escape, demonstrating how seamlessly nature coexists with urban life in Japan.
Further afield, the Tottori Sand Dunes present a landscape unlike any other in Japan. Stretching along the coast of the Sea of Japan, these immense, rolling dunes are sculpted by the wind into dramatic ridges and valleys, creating an almost surreal, otherworldly environment. During a winter visit, a dusting of snow added an ethereal beauty to the already captivating scenery.
The Tottori Sand Dunes, a breathtaking natural wonder that feels almost unreal.
A Culinary Journey Worth Travelling For
No discussion of Japan, and particularly Hyogo, would be complete without celebrating its extraordinary culinary scene. Hyogo is, after all, the birthplace of Kobe beef, a globally renowned and exceptionally luxurious meat.
The quintessential experience of sampling authentic Kobe beef is, naturally, in Kobe itself. A dinner at Plaisir offered precisely the kind of indulgent, memorable dining experience one dreams of on holiday. Sourced from Tajima cattle, raised with meticulous care to achieve its signature marbling, the beef, prepared teppanyaki-style, melts in the mouth with a texture that feels almost too good to be true.
The sheer delight of experiencing world-class Kobe beef.
Rich, buttery, and decadently flavourful, it’s a steak that sets an impossibly high bar for all future culinary encounters.
However, Hyogo’s gastronomic prowess extends far beyond its famous beef. Winter brings another regional delicacy: snow crab. In Kinosaki Onsen, the seasonal catch was the star of an elaborate kaiseki dinner, featuring multiple courses showcasing the crab’s sweet and delicate flavour in various preparations, including sashimi, grilled, and hot pot.
Indulging in the exquisite taste of fresh, seasonal snow crab.
Another local specialty worth seeking out is Banshu ramen, originating from the Nishiwaki region. Unlike heavier ramen styles, this version features a subtly sweet, soy-based broth paired with thin, wavy noodles. It’s a comforting, light, and dangerously moreish dish that’s easy to enjoy long after one is satisfied. Hyogo Prefecture truly offers a multitude of signature dishes, each a testament to its rich culinary heritage.
Preserving Tradition: Crafts That Keep Culture Alive
One of the most enriching aspects of exploring Hyogo Prefecture was witnessing the deep integration of traditional crafts into contemporary life. In Nishiwaki, the textile studio Tamaki Niime is renowned for its vibrant fabrics and clothing, created using time-honoured Japanese weaving techniques.
The intricate process of hand-dyeing threads at Tamaki Niime, a hub of traditional textile artistry.
Visiting the studio feels less like a factory tour and more like stepping into an artist’s atelier, where the skill and patience of artisans are evident in every meticulously crafted piece.
Izushi Castle Town, a beautifully preserved historic town once home to samurai, offers another captivating glimpse into the past. Wandering its streets feels like a journey back in time, with traditional shops lining the roads and historical landmarks like the Eirakukan Theatre providing insight into the town’s cultural legacy. Here, a willow weaving workshop offered a hands-on experience with koriyanagi, a local willow variety traditionally used in Toyooka’s renowned bag-making industry.
A first attempt at willow weaving, resulting in a surprisingly well-crafted bag.
Under the guidance of skilled artisans, the delicate strands were woven together, a process that demands a level of patience and dexterity that is surprisingly challenging. The workshop evolved into a friendly, mildly competitive session, with each participant striving to create the neatest bag in the shortest amount of time. While the resulting bags were respectable, the true takeaway was the profound appreciation for the generations of knowledge and dedication that sustain these ancient crafts. These traditions endure not out of trendiness, but through the quiet, consistent passing down of skills from one generation to the next.
The Japan You Didn’t Know You Were Searching For
Japan will always hold its iconic destinations in high regard, each offering a unique and valuable travel experience. Tokyo’s electrifying energy, Kyoto’s serene spiritual centres, and the pristine ski slopes of Hokkaido all beckon travellers for good reason.
However, the journey through Hyogo Prefecture unveiled a different, yet equally compelling, side of Japan. It’s a region that embodies the quintessential Japanese spirit, but with a subtlety and authenticity that often gets lost in the more heavily touristed areas. For those who have already experienced the well-trodden paths, Hyogo Prefecture might just be the missing piece of the Japanese puzzle – the destination you didn’t realise you were looking for, offering a deeper, more nuanced understanding of this captivating country.
