The Revival of the Sleeper Train: Embarking on a Journey Through Europe
In recent years, Europe’s iconic sleeper trains have experienced a remarkable renaissance. This resurgence is fuelled by a growing appreciation for ‘slow travel’ and an increasing awareness of the environmental impact associated with short-haul flights. Consequently, night trains are no longer relics of the past; they are being reintroduced, and in some cases, revived, offering travellers a unique and time-saving experience. Imagine drifting off to sleep in one city and waking up hundreds of kilometres away, often in a different country, the following morning.
This shift in travel preferences has led to a vibrant landscape of overnight rail journeys across the continent. From state-owned giants investing heavily in modern fleets to innovative private operators breathing new life into old routes, the sleeper train is back in vogue. This article explores some of the most compelling and picturesque overnight rail adventures Europe has to offer.
10. The Nightjet Network: Connecting a Continent
A significant driving force behind the sleeper train revival is Austria’s state-owned railway company, OBB, and its Nightjet brand, launched in 2016. A quick glance at the departure board at Vienna’s main station in the early evening might lead one to believe they’ve stumbled into an airport, so extensive are the destinations served. This is a testament to OBB’s substantial investment in sleeper train services and its strategic partnerships with other European railway operators.
The Nightjet network is a comprehensive system that links cities across the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy. These comfortable and regular overnight trains offer a convenient city-centre to city-centre travel solution. Currently, the Nightjet brand operates 19 distinct services, not including various train portions or collaborations with other rail companies.
Further cementing its commitment, OBB is investing in its fleet. The ‘new generation’ of state-of-the-art carriages, manufactured by Siemens, have already been introduced on the Hamburg – Vienna / Innsbruck routes, with plans for wider deployment.
- Journey Time: Varies significantly. For a comprehensive list of routes and durations, visit https://www.nightjet.com/en/.
- Fares:
- From €49 (approx. US$54, £41) for a couchette in a 6-berth compartment.
- €59 (approx. US$66, £49) for a couchette in a 4-berth compartment.
- €89 (approx. US$99, £74) for a bed in a 2-bed sleeper.
- €129 (approx. US$143, £108) for a single-bed sleeper.
9. Vienna to Bucharest: The Dacia Express Experience
While the Dacia Express, connecting Vienna and Bucharest, once held a higher position due to its acclaimed restaurant carriage, its discontinuation of full dining services in late 2022 has somewhat diminished its appeal. Tales of its culinary offerings, particularly the mixed grill, were legendary. Now, the train, comprised of smart Romanian rolling stock, features only a small buffet carriage serving light refreshments during its 18-hour journey.
As with other cross-border services like the Corona, travellers on the Dacia Express should anticipate being woken in the middle of the night for passport checks as the train crosses the border between Hungary and Romania.
However, the leisurely pace of the train allows ample opportunity to catch up on any missed sleep during the morning hours. The journey’s slower speed, at times comparable to a heritage railway, does offer a unique chance to absorb the passing scenery. Highlights include the stretches through Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains. Notably, like the sleeper trains to and from Sicily, tourists are often in the minority on the Dacia Express. Personal accounts mention encounters with Dutch volunteers travelling to a remote village they were assisting in connecting to essential services.
- Journey Time: 18 hours.
- Price:
- From €59 (approx. US$66, £49) for a couchette in a 6-berth compartment.
- €69 (approx. US$77, £58) for a couchette in a 4-berth compartment.
- €79 (approx. US$88, £66) for a bed in a 3-berth sleeper.
- €99 (approx. US$110, £83) for a bed in a 3-berth sleeper (note: this appears to be a duplicate listing from the original text, likely intended to be a different berth option).
- €159 (approx. US$177, £133) for a bed in a single-berth sleeper.
8. Brussels to Berlin / Prague: A New European Connection
The continued rise in sleeper train popularity is vividly illustrated by European Sleeper, an open-access operator founded in 2021. This company successfully revived the Brussels to Berlin sleeper train route in 2023 and subsequently extended the service to Prague earlier this year. This development means that Prague is now just one change away from London: a simple Eurostar journey to Brussels, followed by a seamless transfer to the sleeper train, allowing you to wake up in the Czech Republic. This exemplifies the significant advantages offered by modern sleeper train services.
Sleeper trains typically require substantial subsidies or high fares to remain viable. Therefore, it’s a very positive sign that European Sleeper is able to offer an affordable and much-needed cross-European connection. While this is currently their sole route, the company harbours ambitions to introduce journeys to Barcelona and destinations in Scandinavia in the future. For enthusiasts of the “sleep in one city, wake up hundreds of miles away” experience, these expansion plans are highly encouraging.
- Journey Time: 15 hours and 30 minutes.
- Price:
- From €49 (approx. US$54, £41) for a seat.
- €79 (approx. US$88, £66) for a couchette in a 6-berth compartment.
- €159 (approx. US$177, £133) for a bed in a single-bed sleeper.
7. Stockholm to Narvik: Journeying into the Arctic Circle
Operating seven days a week, this 18-hour journey connects the Swedish capital with towns and settlements located well within the Arctic Circle, culminating at the world’s northernmost standard-gauge railway station. The ever-changing scenery along this route is a significant draw. During a journey from Narvik to Stockholm in 2023, the landscapes transformed from Norwegian mountains and fjords to vast expanses of forestry on either side of the Arctic Circle, interspersed with mining communities. The border of the Arctic Circle, disappointingly, is not marked with a sign.
Waking up the following morning revealed more populated areas before arriving in Stockholm mid-morning. This timing is ideal for travellers wishing to spend a day in the capital or, as in the case of the author, to connect with onward services heading south. For those arriving in Narvik, bus connections are available to northern destinations such as Tromso. The experience of this journey can vary dramatically between seasons. A winter trip will present a starkly different vista compared to a summer excursion. While in August 2023 the sun set around 11 pm, a winter traveller might find the majority of their journey completed in darkness.
- Journey Time: 18 hours.
- Prices from: 500 SEK (approx. €50, US$56, £42).
6. Villach to Edirne: A Car-Carrying Adventure
A select few car-carrying trains still operate in Europe, and the Optima Express, linking Austria and Turkey, is perhaps one of the most practical remaining options. Operated by the private company Optima Tours, the journey spans either two nights and one day or two days and one night, depending on the booking date. The train is equipped with covered car-carrying wagons and comfortable couchette carriages.
According to the Optima Express website, the train can accommodate vehicles up to 270cm in height. It is advisable to confirm your vehicle’s dimensions before booking if you have a larger car. The train also features a restaurant car, which doubles as a communal area and cinema outside of typical mealtimes.
Elsewhere in Europe, car-carrying trains are available between Hamburg and Villach, and Hamburg and Innsbruck / Munich, operated by Urlaubs Express.
- Journey Time: Two nights and one day, or two days and one night.
- Price:
- €164 (approx. US$182, £137) for a six-person compartment.
- €560 (approx. US$622, £468) for sole occupancy.
- An additional cost of up to €560 (approx. US$622, £468) applies for a car.
5. Budapest to Split: Adriatic Charm by Rail
Hungarian Railways (MAV) features another notable train on this list: the Adria, connecting Budapest and Split. This service shares many desirable qualities with the Corona train. Its standout feature is the restaurant car, which was formerly part of the Hungarian governmental train. Much like its Romanian counterpart, it serves a variety of freshly prepared meals. Imagine waking up to a freshly cooked breakfast while catching glimpses of the Adriatic Sea appearing through the hillsides.
A word of caution: this train operates only during the summer months and runs three times per week in each direction. Eastbound services depart on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays, while westbound services run on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.
Despite these operational constraints, it offers a civilised way to reach the Adriatic coast, avoiding the often-inconvenient airport transfers. Furthermore, the presence of a restaurant carriage with a history in government service is a unique selling point.
- Journey Time: 15 hours.
- Prices:
- From €49 (approx. US$54, £41) with a couchette in a 6-berth compartment.
- €59 (approx. US$66, £49) with a couchette in a 4-berth compartment.
- €64 (approx. US$71, £54) with a bed in a 3-bed sleeper.
- €79 (approx. US$88, £66) with a bed in a 2-bed sleeper.
- €119 (approx. US$132, £99) in a single-bed sleeper.
4. London to Fort William: The Scottish Highlands Await
The United Kingdom currently offers two primary sleeper train routes: the Night Riviera from London Paddington to Penzance, and the Caledonian Sleeper, which departs from London Euston to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness, and Fort William. Of the Caledonian Sleeper’s various routes, the one to Fort William is arguably the most captivating. You can retire for the night in the capital and awaken in the remote Scottish Highlands, an area characterised by minimal mobile phone reception and a higher likelihood of spotting deer than cars.
The West Highland Line, which this route traverses, is renowned as one of the most scenic railway lines in the UK. It passes through Corrour, Britain’s most remote and highest railway station. The Fort William portion of the train stops here, presenting an ideal disembarkation point for keen hikers, as the nearest road is a considerable 10 miles away.
While booking a ticket on the morning departure requires a degree of flexibility, the sleeper train conveniently connects with “The Jacobite,” a steam-hauled charter that travels along the world-famous West Highland Line extension to Mallaig. This service has been operating in various forms for the past four decades. Its popularity surged following its appearance in the Harry Potter films, particularly its iconic journey across the Glenfinnan Viaduct en route to the fishing village of Mallaig. For those interested in multi-modal travel, Mallaig station is ideally located near the ferry port, offering sailings to the Isle of Skye and other nearby islands.
- Journey Time: 13 hours.
- Price:
- From £40 (approx. US$44, €48) for a seat.
- £140 (approx. US$155, €167) for a berth.
3. Budapest to Brasov: Transylvanian Charm on the Corona
Several sleeper trains connect Hungary and Romania, but the Corona sleeper train, operated by MAV, stands out as the premier option. Designed to link the Hungarian-speaking region of Romanian Transylvania with the Hungarian capital, the Corona surpasses its competitors due to its exceptional rolling stock. The service typically comprises immaculately maintained Soviet-era sleeping carriages with charming wooden panelling. Additionally, the train features a pristine restaurant carriage where breakfast and dinner are cooked to order, and local beer is available on tap.
A word of caution, which also applies to other trains between Hungary and Romania, such as the Ista and the Vienna-originating Dacia Express: Romania is not part of the Schengen Area, meaning manual passport controls are conducted at the border. Eastbound, these checks occur at a relatively civilised hour, around 9:30 pm Hungarian time, allowing for an uninterrupted night’s sleep. However, westbound, these checks take place at a much earlier 4:00 am, involving two separate inspections (one to stamp you out of Romania and another to stamp you into Hungary) approximately half an hour apart. A knock on the door and a border worker’s call of “PASSPORTS” is a guaranteed, albeit abrupt, wake-up call.
- Journey Time: 14 hours.
- Price:
- From €39 (approx. US$43, £33) with a couchette in a 6-berth compartment.
- €46 (approx. US$51, £38) with a couchette in a 4-berth compartment.
- €69 (approx. US$77, £58) with a bed in a 3-bed sleeper.
- €84 (approx. US$93, £70) in a single sleeper.
2. Milan to Sicily: A Ferry Tale on Rails
The primary allure of the Milan to Sicily sleeper train is its unique method of crossing the Strait of Messina. In the absence of a bridge or tunnel, the trains are loaded onto a ship, the last remaining train ferry in Europe. While the actual crossing takes approximately 20 minutes, there can be significant delays at either end, particularly as portions of the train destined for Palermo and Syracuse are separated.
For rail enthusiasts, the operational aspects are quite fascinating. The yards and the ferry itself are not electrified, necessitating the use of vintage diesel shunters to move the carriages on and off the vessel.
For many Sicilians, these sleeper trains represent a vital link to the mainland, and tourists are a minority among the passengers. During a personal journey in February 2023, fellow passengers in the adjacent berth were returning to the island after working away and visiting a hospital for surgery, and they seemed somewhat bewildered by the boarding and disembarking procedures for the ferry. It is worth noting that the southbound journey during daylight hours offers lengthy stretches alongside the Tyrrhenian Sea. Travellers on the Syracuse portion will also be treated to views of Mount Etna.
- Journey Time: 21 hours (to Palermo), 19 hours 30 minutes (to Syracuse).
- Price:
- From €39.99 (approx. US$44, £33) in a four-person couchette.
- €84.90 (approx. US$94, £71) in a single-bed sleeper.
1. Venice Simplon-Orient-Express: The Epitome of Luxury Rail Travel
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express offers the most opulent way to travel between London or Paris and Venice. It features beautifully restored carriages from the 1920s, 1930s, and 1950s and typically operates once a week. Prior to 2024, passengers travelling from London would board the Belmond British Pullman from London Victoria to Dover, then travel under the English Channel in a coach before joining the main train at Calais. From 2024 onwards, passengers will take a Eurostar to Paris and then transfer to the luxurious Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.
The train boasts a piano bar carriage and two exquisite restaurant carriages, with all meals included in the substantial fare of £3353 (approx. US$4500, €4010). For many, whether they are rail enthusiasts or not, a journey on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience, partly due to its iconic name. The very mention of the Orient-Express evokes images of unparalleled luxury on rails.
It is important to clarify that the “original Orient Express” was a service, not a single set of carriages. Throughout its long history, the Orient Express utilised various rolling stock and required multiple sets of coaches to operate at any given time. Nevertheless, the carriages on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express are meticulously restored and have been in operation as part of this tourist-focused train since the early 1980s.
- Journey Time: 26 hours.
- Prices: From £3353 (approx. US$4500, €4010).
