An Unforeseen Arrival: When 120 Guests Descend on a Remote Tasmanian Island
For Melaynie and Casey Spinks, life on Three Hummock Island is usually a tranquil affair. As the dedicated caretakers of this eco-reserve, nestled off Tasmania’s north-western coast within the rugged Hunter Island group, they are accustomed to a select few. Their role involves hosting a maximum of eight guests at any given time, curating an exclusive, castaway-like experience within the historic homestead, which dates back to approximately 1910.
Imagine their utter surprise, then, when the passengers from Aurora Expeditions’ vessel, the Douglas Mawson, disembarked from their Zodiacs and made a beeline for the whitewashed homestead. A roaring fire pit and endless cups of tea were ready, but the sheer volume of visitors was a far cry from their usual intimate gatherings.
“We think it’s probably a record for the number of people at once on the island,” Casey Spinks remarked, still a little taken aback. “If there’s 20 people on the island at a time, that’s a big day for us – but with 120, it was a shock to see everyone walking up the track.”
This unexpected influx of visitors proved to be a significant highlight of the Douglas Mawson‘s inaugural journey. The cruise, which set sail from Hobart, was initially planned as a circumnavigation of Tasmania. However, the formidable seas of the Roaring Forties forced a change of plans, compelling the abandonment of the proposed route along Tasmania’s wild west coast. This led to a more fluid and opportunistic itinerary, with spontaneous landings along the eastern and northern coastlines, dictated entirely by the ever-changing sea conditions.
Therefore, the announcement that the scheduled landing on Three Hummock Island would indeed proceed was met with considerable jubilation. Named by Matthew Flinders in 1798 for its distinctive three hump-like protrusions, the island offered passengers a precious opportunity to stretch their legs on one of Tasmania’s 334 offshore islands.
For Mel and Casey Spinks, this was also a momentous occasion, marking the very first time their island home had hosted a cruise ship. It represented a fitting partnership with Aurora Expeditions, a company committed to sustainable tourism, attracting passengers who share a deep appreciation for nature and a desire to explore pristine, untouched destinations.
Exploring the Island’s Unique Charms
Upon arrival at the homestead, Mel and Casey offered a brief but essential welcome. “Beware near that sign,” Casey advised, pointing towards a particular spot, “there’s a tiger snake that hangs out there.” With this word of caution, the eager passengers dispersed, splitting into groups based on their individual interests.
The Adventurous Hikers: The most intrepid bushwalkers immediately set their sights on the 237-metre ascent of South Hummock, the island’s highest point. This challenging climb promises breathtaking panoramic views for those willing to tackle the elevation.
The Avian Enthusiasts: Birdwatchers gravitated towards Home Beach, where the rich coastal environment offers ample opportunities to spot a diverse array of seabirds and waders.
The Leisurely Explorers: My own group opted for a more relaxed pace, embarking on a gentle stroll towards Spiers Bay, situated on the island’s north-western coastline, offering commanding views across Bass Strait.
Our journey took us up a cleared hill, past the distinctive honking of Cape Barren geese and the serene sight of kangaroos grazing peacefully. A quirky sculpture of two men and a dog perched on a boulder added a touch of local artistry to the landscape. We followed a meticulously maintained track, clearly the work of Casey’s diligent efforts, leading us to a viewpoint. Here, a plaque served as a poignant commemoration of the lives of John and Eleanor Alliston, former residents who played a significant role in the island’s history.
The Allistons managed the island as a farm between 1951 and 1999. Their isolated existence was so compelling that Eleanor documented it in two published books: Escape to an Island and Island Affair. During their tenure, the island was officially declared a Nature Reserve in 1978. Later, in 2001, it transitioned to a State Reserve, a designation that saw the removal of livestock and the gradual reclaiming of fencing by the relentless forces of nature.
A Beach Unspoiled by Footprints
Walking along an Australian beach is rarely an experience devoid of human footprints. However, as we arrived at Spiers Bay, we were the first to leave a mark in the golden sands that day. For centuries prior, this island served as a vital hunting ground for the Palawa people of the North West tribe. These resourceful inhabitants would swim the approximately five kilometres of open water from neighbouring Hunter Island to access the island’s bounty.
The crescent-shaped bay is watched over by a striking natural landmark known as the Five Sisters. This cluster of imposing boulders, huddled together as if posing for a family portrait, possesses a unique beauty. Their surfaces are adorned with sculptural indents and vibrant lichen, giving them the appearance of being meticulously carved by an artist like Henry Moore and then displayed within a magnificent natural art gallery.
Island Life: Challenges and Rewards
Back at the homestead, Mel Spinks was busy preparing her 100th cup of tea for the day, yet she still found time for a warm and engaging conversation about life on Three Hummock Island. The most significant challenge, she explained, is the relentless wind, which poses a constant threat to her vegetable garden, drying out the soil. Her husband, Casey, echoed this sentiment with a sigh, lamenting the fact that machinery repairs on the island invariably take three times longer than they would on the “mainland.”
“The last caretaker’s parting words to us were ‘The island always wins’,” Casey shared, a wry smile playing on his lips. “But the highlight,” he continued, his voice filled with genuine awe, “is waking up in the most magnificent place you can imagine.”
CRUISE DETAILS:
Aurora Expeditions offers an 11-day “Coastal Tasmania: Untamed Wilderness” cruise aboard the Douglas Mawson, with prices starting from $12,316 per person. This itinerary includes a captivating visit to Three Hummock Island. For more information, visit aurora-expeditions.com.
MORE INFORMATION:
Further details about Three Hummock Island can be found at threehummockisland.com.au.
Note: Julie Miller travelled as a guest of Aurora Expeditions.
